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HAPPY EID IN BAGHDAD

October 25, 2006 7:27 PM

It is Eid now, the three-day feast that Muslims celebrate after the end of Ramadan, and mercifully the level of violence in Baghdad seems to have moderated, at least somewhat.  Eid is effectively equivalent to a western Christmas – when you meet someone on the street, even strangers, you typically say “Eidkum mubarak”, “may your Eid be blessed” -  similar to the “Happy Christmas” or “Happy Holidays” greetings in the west.

Also like Christmas, Eid is a time for giving presents, for family and friends – children in particular.  And so traditionally on the eve of Eid the markets and shopping districts are crowded with shoppers, looking for food, clothes and gifts.  The eve of Eid this year was marred by a number of bombing attacks on markets, and several dozen people were killed, but since then things have calmed down.  The streets are also quite quiet now, as many people are staying at home for the holiday period.

The neighborhood where our bureau is located is particularly quiet now, because the US has cordoned off the entire area as they continue their search for the American soldier who was abducted here on Monday evening.  We walked down to the end of the street today where a big Stryker armored vehicle is parked, the soldiers barely visible above the hatch openings (less of a target for snipers).  They were friendly enough when we approached, and a couple came out to talk to us briefly, but they didn’t smile, and their eyes constantly scanned the road and the building roofs around them as they talked.  Baghdad has become a scary city for them, every window could hold a gunman, every pile of garbage in the gutter could conceal a roadside bomb.  They had a sniffer dog with them and took him out for a pee break, then they all disappeared back inside the hull of the Stryker, and the back ramp came up to seal them off.

Used to be that kids on the streets in Baghdad would approach U.S. soldiers, with all their dozen words of English (“Hey mister, wass your name?”).  Sometimes they would be rewarded with candy or a bottle of water or a pen.  But I didn’t see any of that today, the parents in our neighborhood kept their children close.  And I didn’t see anyone wishing the soldiers happy Eid either.  This war is dividing people, destroying trust as surely as it destroys cars and buildings and human lives.

We waved at the soldiers as we headed home.  We couldn’t see if they waved back.

October 25, 2006 | Permalink | User Comments (0)

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